16.4.13

Custom Katastrophic Silk Chiffon Gown

I just finished an unusual project for myself- designing and sewing a formal gown for a client!  It's such a change from my normal design work of knitwear for every day, but it's interesting and exciting to get to use really rich and beautiful materials, like the silk chiffon and silk velvet I used in this project!  

Here are my sketches for the idea of the dress which I created after meeting with my client and looking at some pictures together of what she liked.  I first wanted to make sure I was a good fit for her as a designer.  Luckily I really liked her inspiration pics and it was easy for us to come up with something we both could get excited about.  You can see some variations, some of which I'd like to start as a jumping off point for other custom dresses:


I really love drawing and it's one of my strong points, so naturally in my design process I rely a lot on my drawings, which is where I make most of the design decisions.  This time since I haven't ever worked with this kind of fabric before I wasn't sure how the design would translate to the finish piece, so it was a bit of an experiment.

This is what the final dress looks like!  Though the scalloped hemline is not identical to what I had drawn, but the effect is still what I wanted.  I was lucky to be able to get my fabrics in almost the exact colors I was imagining, as you can see in my sketches, thanks to Fabricker, one of Austin's great locally owned fabric stores!


Not a perfect fit on my dress form, but tailored specifically to my client.  You still get the idea.


Exquisite silk velvet from Silk Fabric on Etsy


Three layers of chiffon lined only to the knee so the dress ends in a semi-sheer ombre effect.  The bottom two layers are iridescent silk!  A total dream.




10.4.13

DIY Dress Form Step 1: Building the Mold

 This is the SECOND installment of my Ultimate DIY Dress Form Tutorial!  Click here for Part 1, the Intro post.

BEFORE building your mold, there are several things you have to very carefully consider:

* You are going to have to stand very still with excellent
    posture without moving for at least an hour.

* The mold is going to be very fragile.

* If you move or shift, your mold is not going to be accurate.

* You might want to protect your skin if it is particularly
    sensitive.

* And lastly and VERY importantly, you CAN'T do this part alone!!!  All the other parts you can do pretty much by yourself, but you can't wrap yourself in plaster bandages and then cut yourself out by yourself!  You need at least one friend to wrap the bandages on you and then cut you out.

* Also, keep in mind that you are going to be basically naked except for a ratty old pair of undies that you are ok with ruining, so you better do this project with someone where there is mutual comfort with seeing most of your bare naked body, and in fact getting very hands on with said body.  In a 100% business way, of course.

p.s. I hope you like this ridiculous picture of me (left) and my great friend Rachel (right) who is always adventurous and hilarious, which is pretty much the perfect thing for a project involving getting almost naked and then having to literally stand around like that for a couple hours.

For this stage, you will need:

1) Plaster Bandages
I used this product: http://orthotape.com/3_inch_face_mask_plaster_bandages.asp  which is a package of twelve (3 in. by 5 yard) rolls for $22 plus shipping.  Rachel and I shared two 12 roll packs, and there was still enough left over for me to do leg casts later on, though I had to skimp a little.  The shipping was around $15 for our two packages, so it totaled $57, or about $28.50 each.

2) A shallow tub or tupperware to wet the plaster strips in that you don't mind getting plaster stuck to (it doesn't need to be very big).

3) Something to stand on that will protect a large area of floor and is preferably water proof.  I used an old bed sheet, but obviously that is not waterproof.  A tarp or plastic sheet might be better, but check to make sure it's not going to be slippery if you drip water all over.

4) A very good friend who you trust and will be able to comfortably place wet strips of bandage on you and smooth them down snugly over pretty nearly every inch of your torso.

5) Bandage scissors.  I did not have these and it proved very difficult to cut us out with regular scissors.  We also used a razor blade for some help, which I do NOT recommend because it is very dangerous, even though we did it successfully with some time and care.

6) A surface to lay your molds on while they dry completely, and extra old sheets or fabric and heavy bottles to prop the molds so the don't fall out of shape.

Ready to do it?

You should be wearing just an old pair of underwear, or at least a pair that you don't mind throwing away when this is done.  You can also wear a bra if you feel you need one, but know that it will also be ruined, and the shape of the bra will be built into your mold, so it be the same kind of bra you normally wear under your clothing.  I didn't wear a bra, but Rachel did wear a light cami-type bra, which ended up being a little difficult to get proper shaping around the bust.  That's why I recommend wearing a bra that will create an accurate shape for yourself, but just remember you will pretty much be ruining it.  I suppose you could try first wrapping yourself in plastic wrap before the plaster bandages, but I can't say exactly how difficult that would be or how well it would turn out.

All you need to do is cut the bandages into strips maybe 6 to 8 inches long and start methodically dipping them in the water and placing them on your body.  We started at the chest and shoulders and worked downwards, carefully shaping the armholes and making sure there were no air bubbles.  You have to work pretty fast because the bandages start to dry with your body heat fairly quickly.  Do one layer all over and then repeat until you are covered with about 3 or 4 even layers.  I think we found weak areas by poking the shell all over and if we found a place that dented in, we added more strips there.  Your shell should not bend or crease (which you should not even attempt to do anyway, since you should be standing totally still and strait)!  Don't be tempted to look down or twist.  If you have to look at something, use a mirror.

Be especially careful around the hip level.  You should know ahead of time if you want to make a full form with legs, or a regular form that ends a little below the hips.  You can make it as long as you want, but if you want to make legs, it will be more difficult and you need to do it in 2 separate stages.  Ideally I would have made my torso mold actually wrap under the crotch like a leotard and carefully shape the leg holes so I could match up the leg molds more easily later on.  However I didn't think of that until too late.

Once you are covered in enough layers of plaster strips, you need to wait still until you can tell that the mold has really hardened.  I suggest waiting at least 30 minutes after the last strip is added.  Remember to go pee before you start this process, because once you start you are stuck!!

When the plaster feels nice and hard and dry on the surface, your friend can cut nice clean incisions up each side from the bottom edge to the armhole, and also cut across each shoulder from shoulder to neck.  Yes, this is scary.  But that is why you have to choose a friend you can trust.  And use the bandage scissors- this is what they are designed for.  Also, it is not my fault if you get cut.  This is a little tricky and you have to be careful.  Getting cut is a risk you have to accept.  Though we had no accidents.

After you make these cuts, you will be able to gently pry the front and back pieces off your body.  Do this carefully because the mold is still fragile!  Try not to crumble the edges, or warp the whole piece.  To let the molds finish drying, find a nice surface where they can sit for a good 24 hours without being disturbed.  they need to be propped up carefully around all the edges and under the curves so the weight of the wet bandages doesn't cause the molds to splay open or collapse, even a little bit.  Try to make sure they retain exactly the shape they were in on your body.  The most important thing is to support under the waist so it doesn't droop, and also prop up the sides so they don't droop open.  (This is something I see happening in some of the DIY tutorials I've looked on online- you can recognize it by very wide and flattened looking hips/buttox areas.)


Molds drying, propped with random bottles and candle jars and wads of fabric.

This is basically what you will look like after you get out of the molds (and after you put on some clothes, of course):

 I let my molds dry for a day or two, but my studio doesn't get direct sunlight and the room stayed pretty cool, so when I made the leg pieces I ended up taking each piece and laying out on the balcony in the sun for a couple hours where they finished drying out very quickly.

You can tell the molds are completely dry when they don't feel cool to the touch.  They will also feel considerably more light weight.

The next step is to sew the molds back together.  I used waxed linen thread and a curved upholstery needle, which you can get at probably any good craft store for under $10.  This bit took some time, but the mold was more sturdy than I expected and it held together quite well.  I sat on the floor and propped the mold with my legs while I sewed.  Check out the pics below of what the finished product looked like:






At this point your mold looks quite fascinating, and you might be tempted to take thousands of pictures of it, which I do recommend.  This is a project well worth documenting!  Plus, it makes your body look like a statue of Venus.  Which, of course, it basically is.

I will pause for now and let you take a breather before continuing to the next step of building the stand.  Just building the mold alone is quite enough for one day!





6.4.13

DIY Dress Form The Ultimate DIY Dress Form Tutorial Intro: Basic method

Interested in learning to make your own professional quality custom dress form for under $100??  

This is PART 1 of my Ultimate DIY Dress Form Tutorial where I show you how to make a SUPER professional and functional form using: 


             *medical plaster wraps, 
             *construction foam, and
             *PVC pipes 
             (as well as some quilt batting and stretch fabric for the final cover).

Finished Dress Form!  (It's almost too realistic... :)

     Last year I decided as a designer I was way overdue for owning a functional dress form.  However, I wasn't about to spend the $300-$600 it would cost to get a decent and professional form.  (I don't care what anyone says... those adjustable forms you can get at the craft store are a joke, if you know anything about draping.)  I had made a DIY dress form several years ago with my bestie, Megan Winn of The Binding Bee, but it was never very functional and I left it in Indiana when I moved to Austin to pursue fashion design.  I decided it was time to try again and do a better job.

Here is the only picture I seem to have of this form, with one of my earliest projects.  

     You can find a million tutorials on duct tape or kraft tape forms.  The reason Megan and I chose kraft over duct tape was because I had read many comments about duct tape being very heavy and sticky, and just the weight of the duct tape would eventually make the whole thing sag out of shape.  Our kraft paper forms were vaguely successful.  My biggest critique with making a form using tape is that you can't stick pins into it, which almost negates it's usefulness.  The pins get very sticky and are instantly ruined, which also happens with duct tape forms.

     I think by now most people have figured out that you can make a mold of yourself and then fill it with foam to make a much lighter and more functional form that you can stick pins in.  When I embarked on this project about a year ago, I found two VERY helpful tutorials that followed similar methods using medical plaster wraps to make a fantastically accurate mold of the body, and then the forms were filled with expandable foam from the hardware store.  Unfortunately one of the tutorials seems to have disappeared except for some pictures and broken links.  However, I'll still list both of them for you:

Part 1 by Jenna Sauer
Part 2 by Jenna Sauer

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/diy-dress-form-for-men
 You can see how incredibly professional this one looked in the end, which was hugely inspiring to me.

Overall, the process is broken down into these stages:

Part 1: Building the mold and stand



Part 2: Filling mold with foam



Part 3: Covering the form


And we're finished!

I'll be posting Step 1 soon... in the mean time, check out my clothing line Katastrophic!

Ready to move on?  Here's Step 1!

2.4.13

Packages!

Mailing packages to Kitsch. Boutique!!  Contents: Black Mermaid Dresses, feather light mermaid tanks, and infinitely versatile summer wading skirts in black and moss! 

11.2.13

Something Blue


https://www.etsy.com/listing/123365363/valentines-sale-teal-roses-high-waist

23.1.13

What do you like to wear? Survey time!

I'm taking a survey of the things my friends and customers like to wear to help inform my design choices for my upcoming collections!  It's hard not always designing things that happen to look good on my own body type, so this will help me hear what other people prefer in terms of necklines, waistlines, colors, etc!

Take the survey!

9.1.13

Katastrophic and Chaos Card Company collaborations!



Check out the work of the Chaos Card Company on their facebook page and also get updates as to where you can buy these insanely fabulous undies!

https://www.facebook.com/chaoscardcompany?ref=ts&fref=ts